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Outdoor Nova Scotia: Features ... an In-depth Look at 'The Great Outdoors' in Nova Scotia!
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Winter in
Nova Scotia, Naturally! by Blake MaybankWinter is the season with which Canadians identify; they wrap its rigors around their shoulders as a flag of honour, and wave it to the world for everyone to see. And this year, with vicious ice-storms in the east, avalanches in the western mountains, and floods in the Maritimes, the ensign is particularly vivid. But if such events encourage our natural inclination to remain warmly indoors through the interminable wait for spring, we would miss out on the natural delights the outdoor world has to offer. This is especially true in Nova Scotia.
First and foremost are the birders, who take to the field energetically in December, and whose attention doesn't usually begin to flag until early February. As winter commences there is the excitement of searching for misguided birds who either forgot to migrate in the autumn, or are hopelessly lost; Nova Scotia is perfectly situated to catch such errant waifs, being the last stop before the open Atlantic. Some birds are of sufficient rarity that they attract attention from far and wide. This past November a Brown Shrike, normally resident in Asia, was found in the Fairview area of Halifax, and during its nine day stay lured in more than 300 observers from across and beyond Nova Scotia, generating $100,000 for the tourism industry in the process. And, for birds as for the weather, there is always the sense of unpredictability; will this be a "winter finch" year, with heavy cone crops attracting crossbills and siskins? Will Bohemian Waxwings stage an invasion in search of berries, as they have this year? Can we hope to encounter Northern Shrikes swaying on the tops of trees, watching for inattentive prey? For a number of years Bald Eagles have been concentrating in the Annapolis Valley of Kings County during the months of harsh weather, lured by the easy pickings of daily discarded chicken carcasses disposed by large-scale chicken processing companies. The village of Sheffield Mills has capitalized on this annual spectacle, by organizing an annual Eagle Watch Week-end, inviting Nova Scotians to travel to the valley to marvel at bare trees festooned with majestic Bald Eagles, awaiting their poultry hand-outs with stately grace (info 1-800-505-3882). As Christmas approaches, so does the Audubon Society Christmas Bird Count period, an exciting three weeks of formal surveys across the province (see article elsewhere in this issue). Then, as January gets underway, birders start their "year-lists", looking for birds of the high arctic that spend their winters "south" in Nova Scotia. Some of these birds, including the diminutive Dovekie and the graceful Black-headed Gull, are charismatic to birders elsewhere in North America, and provide sufficient incentive for a winter trip here. Professional companies such as Nature Travel Services can custom-design a trip to suit your needs (1-888-305-3955), while OBServ Tours offers an annual January weekend trip to seek out Dovekies and other winter specialties (615-292-2739).
But how to get around in the snow and ice? Some might feel intimidated by the physical limitations ruthless weather imposes, but others consider it only a minor nuisance. A car is essential, at least for the first part of any journey, but after that you can go on foot, cross-country ski, or snowshoe. In our recent warmer winters, good cross-country skiing conditions have become less reliable, but when the snow allows you can head to established cross-country trails in Kejimkujik National Park (902-682-2772), Cape Breton Highlands National Park (902-285-2691), as well as the commercial ski operations at Ski Martock (902-798-9501), and Ski Wentworth (902-548-2089). "Unofficial" trails closer to Halifax that are periodically suitable for cross country include Uniacke Estate Museum Park, Smiley and Dollar Lake Provincial Parks, or, less often, Shubie Park or Point Pleasant Park. Most of the hiking trails we enjoy in summer can be attempted in winter, save for highland areas of the Cobequids, Antigonish or Cape Breton (where snowshoes might be more appropriate). Routes nearer the coast are likely to offer easier access, and some are snowless much of the winter. Some recommended areas beyond metro include Brier Island, Cape Sable Island, Hemeon's Head (Shelburne County), Cherry Hill Beach (Lunenburg County), and Sober Island (eastern shore). Closer to Halifax you can try Indian Point (near Prospect), Hartlen Point, Rainbow Haven, or Conrad's Beach (West Lawrencetown). And if you are determined to spend more time outside, you can always consider winter camping, with facilities available both in Kejimkujik National Park (back-country cabins available for rental), and Cape Breton Highlands National Park (primitive camping, as well a some sites with adjacent flush toilets and running water); phone numbers for the parks listed above. If you are reluctant to venture forth on your own, you could link up with any of the free evening presentations or weekend field trips sponsored by the province's many natural History Societies, such as: a) The Nova Scotia Bird Society - bird information line at 902-852-CHAT - e-mail queries to canbird@bigfoot.com - http://ccn.cs.dal.ca/Recreation/NS-BirdSoc/nsbsfiel.html b) The Halifax Field Naturalists - http://ccn.cs.dal.ca/Recreation/FieldNaturalists/trip.html c) The Blomidon Naturalist Club in Wolfville - http://ace.acadiau.ca/bns/birdnews.htm#index And you can always find a natural diversion by visiting the Museum of Natural History in Halifax, open year-round (info 424-3563). Instead of lingering indoors, a winter hostage bemoaning the temperature and longing for the salvation of summer, dare to step outside and experience the delight of Nova Scotia's winter nature for yourself. Blake Maybank is an avid birder, an active member of the American Birding Society and the Nova Scotia Birding Society and President of the Adventure Tourism Association of Nova Scotia.
Winter in Nova Scotia, Naturally, first published March, 1998. Designed & maintained by Outdoor Nova Scotia, Liverpool, N.S. BOT 1KO. Material protected by copyright. Last revised: December 29, 2001 |
In
defense of the indoor enthusiasts, Nova Scotia does
experience truculent winter weather, a malleable forecast that shifts swiftly, day to day
or even hour to hour, from snow to rain to wind to sun. It's never dull, and only
occasionally forces brief retreats inside shelter. Accordingly, those of us with a love of
nature seek every chance to head outdoors in winter, less as a measure of defiance, but
more to requite our passion, and learn something new.
Birds are not the sole focus of winter natural
explorations; excursions are also made to seek animal tracks, identify winter trees,
photograph snowy landscapes, or comb beaches empty of people, with seals bobbing in the
surf (Martinique Beach is especially nice for this). There is even winter
whale-watching; some Minke and Fin Whales linger in the Bay of Fundy (contact
Westport Whalewatch, 1-800-952-0225 to learn of recent sightings and arrange special
winter charters), and some Fin Whales occasionally enter the outer approaches to Halifax
harbour -- the best viewing is from Chebucto Head, located between Portuguese Cove and
Ketch Harbour on Rte 253; even though whale sightings are infrequent, the vista is
wonderful, especially during strong winds with high waves.
Take
me to the 
