Country Gardener, Issue #4, Fall Bulb Planting

Naturalizing

There's a new rage. It is called naturalizing. Some
people love the casual and natural effect that it produces. Basically,
take a handful of bulbs, and scatter them with a flick of the wrist.
Let them land where they may. (One lady I know throws them over her shoulder). Dig a hole where the bulb lands and proceed by using the advice opposite.

Bulbs that lend themselves best for naturalizing are crocus, muscari, scillia and the earliest varieties of daffodils. Imagine having your lawn spring up with these delights as snow barely melts away with the winter doldrums. Isn't it time you treated yourself to a shopping spree for bulbs?

A special thanks to Vesey's Seeds, York, PEI for the photos. Call them toll FREE at: 1 800 363 7333.

Sandra Phinney is a free-lance writer living in Yarmouth County, Nova Scotia. Sandra is an avid gardener and a frequent contributor to Outdoor Nova Scotia.

Everyone can relate to the thrill of seeing something colorful and alive
pop out of the ground after a long, cold winter. Cheery crocuses, saucy daffodils and sweet smelling hyacinths give us a boost, bring a smile to our face and the hope that spring has truly sprung.

It is no wonder, then, that the fastest growing garden interest has to do with planting bulbs-and fall is the perfect time of year to do it. Like bears, bulbs
need a dormant period. A time rest and hibernate before getting active in the spring. So, four easy steps will pave the way for a mighty rewards next spring.

First: Bulb Selection

Bulbs are usually graded and sold according to size. In general, the bigger the bulb, the larger and taller the plant and flower. As a rule, the smaller the bulb, the earlier it will bloom. Whenever possible, avoid bulbs that are shriveled, gauged, discolored, or show signs of rot or mold. Most people will select a number of varieties to ensure lots of color until other flowers bloom later in the season.

Second: Planting Area

You can plant bulbs under trees, in beds, rock gardens, or hide them in your lawn. But always follow this rule: select a well drained place with lots of sun. Although bulbs are adaptable and can grow in partial shade-they will keep healthy and last longer if they have a good dose of sun every day. Soil should have a ph between 6.0 and 7.0 If it is lower, add some lime.

Three: How and When to Plant

Prepare a bed by mixing in some peat moss or sand. For every 100 sq. feet of bed, mix in six pounds of bone meal or ten pounds of matured compost, or four pounds of super phosphate (0-20-0). Then water well. Plant your bulbs out in the groupings you want. As a rule, bulbs should be three times deeper

daffodils

than their diameter. For example, crocus and hyacinth go 3 to 4 inches deep (and 3 to 4 inches apart). Tulips, irises, daffodils and alliums can be planted 6 to 8 inches deep (and 8 to 12 inches apart).

alliums

If you do not have a prepared bed, simply dig a hole with a crowbar or special bulb digger and put a spoonful of fertilizer in the bottom of the hole, cover lightly with soil, drop the bulb in, and close the hole with the remaining soil. Water your new plantings well. One week later, spread either half the amount of compost over the same area or two pounds of 6-12-12 per 100 sq. ft. Best time to plant? After the first frost, although you can safely plant from September on through late November.

lilies

Four: General Care

Fertilize with compost or a moderate nitrogen product such as 6-12-12 each spring and fall. After the flowers bloom in the spring, be sure to let the foliage turn brown and die off naturally before you mow or cut the plants back, as the leaves provide the bulbs and root systems with the needed nutrients for next year's growth. Premature cutting back will affect the size of the flower the next year. So wait at least 6 weeks before you mow off dying clumps.